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Additional info for Diy Foundry - Metal Casting Made Easy
If you study the photo opposite you will notice the core prints at the end of the cylinder, and the feeder or riser’s at the other end and also the in gate a channel. The cope or underside of the mould board secures the other half of the patterns plus the runner, which delivers the molten metal to the in-gates. The riser’s shown above are short & stubby to provide sufficient feed metal while the casting’s are cooling in the sand mould. The holes drilled through the mould board either side of the patterns allow the registration pins on the ends of the mould Slave Cylinder Patterns (Drag side) boxes to pass through and engage with the Split patterns were mounted on the alignment brackets on the cope mould box.
Method 2 (My Favourite) If you happen to have a charcoal forge stored in the corner of your workshop, drag it out and get it ready to do some serious melting. Firstly you need a good supply of charcoal. (Read…. A good large bag full) You can make it your self. com Now, you have to make up a square or rectangular shaped iron pot with a handle attached to one side. Light up the forge and attach your blower, and set the blast to a low setting, once the bed of charcoal is burning nice and hot, place the steel pot in the hot coals, place the first chunk of cylinder head in and just leave it, it will take awhile to start to show signs of melting.
The steam blow has just destroyed the casting. Looking from the outside you wouldn't know what was wrong with it, as it looked quite normal, looks can be deceiving. As a pressure vessel this had to be a very good quality casting, steel chills were inserted while moulding along the barrel & at the end of the cylinder to promote a dense grain structure. (Chill effect) Needless to say, some new cores were made and some fresh moulds were made up and they turned out just fine. Written by Col Croucher Australia.
Diy Foundry - Metal Casting Made Easy